Inca Trail: Day 2


Trudging up to Dead Woman's Pass

matt 120pxToday was the most difficult day of the trek, as we had to first ascend 1200 meters and then straight down 600 meters. Not only was it steep, but we did it at altitude, from 3000 meters to 4200 and then down to 3600 meters. Today I was definitely thankful that Joylani and I have been between 3500-4000 meters for the past month, because I didn’t experience any altitude problems. It was still a steep climb, but at least I didn’t have breathing or headache problems. The climb took us through diverse microclimates, as we went from tropical jungle to high-altitude puna. As we traversed the high grasslands, it became discouraging to look up and see the ladder-like trail rise ever higher. On the other hand, it was somewhat satisfying to look back every now and then and admire how far we’d come. I climbed mostly alone, because its difficult to do such hikes at anyones’ pace besides your own. I passed a few hikers and had a lot of porters pass me- those guys are amazing, just like their Nepalese counterparts we walked with a year ago. Most of the morning, the mountains were obscured on and off by mist rolling through the valley.

Inca Trail

fog obscures Dead Woman’s Pass ahead

Inca Trail (10)

looking back down into the valley

Once out of the jungle microclimate, it began to drizzle which grew to a steady downpour by the time I’d reached Dead Woman’s Pass. At 4200 meters, a steady rain will cool you down pretty quickly. I was getting colder and I wanted to head down with the other quick walkers in our group, but I’d told Joylani and Alex that I’d wait for them at the top. Joylani made it up not too long after me and we celebrated our day’s accomplishment.

Matt and Joylani summiting Dead Woman's Pass

Joylani quickly became cold as well and decided to head down. So I stood up there alone until I finally spotted Alex slowing climbing the steps. A couple other people in our group told me he was having altitude problems and it looked like it as I watched him struggle upwards. A few steps, rest. A few more steps, rest. I began to wonder if either of us would be alive for our meeting at the summit- he may exhaust himself and I may freeze to death.

Looking down from Dead Woman's Pass

searching for Alex coming up through the fog

He did finally make it and the first words out of his mouth were, “You waited up here for me? Watching me hike up must’ve been like watching grass grow.” He had a terrible headache and said it was tough to breathe coming up.

Alex and Matt summiting Dead Woman's Pass

We took a couple photos and I let him “enjoy his moment” as he put it, before we began to head down. I thought the down was tougher than the up. No goal to work towards, just down the wet and slippery stones.

Descent from Dead Woman's Pass

The steps were big and streams ran over the trail at many points, so it was slow going down. But I didn’t mind taking in the scenery when the clouds allowed it. Plus, I was tired, cold, and my knees began to hurt- we walked down stairs for 2 hours. We caught Joylani and her bum knee on the backside of the pass and the three of us walked into camp together, wet and tired but feeling accomplished.