After wandering around rural central India for the past week, arriving in Mumbai was quite a shock. Emerging from the British-built Gothic CST station, complete with gargoyles, we found ourselves in the heart of south Mumbai. Adequately paved roads and even sidewalks, no rickshaws, legions of commuters (many in suits), the ocean. Being in Bombay was much like being in Western city, except populated by Indians of course. It’s India’s financial epicenter and a showcase for its modernization/Westernization.

We decided on a place in Colaba (the most touristy district of Mumbai), due to its close proximity to Mumbai’s “sights.” The neighborhood we stayed in was predominantly Muslim. Besides little circle hats, long beards, kurtas, and Urdu signage, it was cool because Ramadan started midway through our stay. All the Muslim-owned restaurants closed during the day, while the prayer room across the street was still busy throughout the day. The kebabs and tandooris were excellent, while seafood was widely available as well. Interestingly though, the food was also my first insight into the cities liberalization. Beef was available at a few Muslim-run restaurants, while Goan restaurants often offered pork. The restaurants had alcohol on the menu, while I glimpsed the first real bars/clubs I’ve seen thusfar (in India on this trip). But there were other signs of the liberalization as well. Taking a sunset walk along Marine Drive one night, we saw dozens of couples holding hands or with an arm slung over another’s shoulder. I guess cultural liberalization follows modernization, or is it the other way around?…still not sure.

(unrelated sidenote: could Lee get away with an add like this in PC America?)

Besides all the British architecture and modern buildings, Bombay has few attractions. Exploring Chowpatty beach was interesting, with tons of food stalls and cuddling couples. I heard it’s a nasty place, but it seemed okay to me, perhaps because we saw it at night, its dinginess covered. Another interesting thing was that Ganesh Chaturthi (The Ganesh Festival) began on our last night there. Beginning late that last night and throughout our last day, Ganesh idols were paraded through the city by families. Usually the family was accompanied by several drummers and some kids lighting off firecrackers. The idols were taken to homes, only to be immersed in water (the ocean, a lake, etc) at the end of the multi-day festival. While the modernity of Bombay, the beginning of Ramadan and Ganesh Chaturthi, and sociological observations were all interesting, I think we stayed in Bombay a couple days too long. We explored the city, saw a few museums and checked out a few traveling exhibitions, but Bombay doesn’t really have that many attractions. Its just one of those cities that seems like a great place to live, but not to visit as a tourist.