Traffic

joylani 130pxBack to the city…thank goodness for running water and an attached bathroom…Matt and I both got sick with something.  I went the store this morning to pick up some breakfast and discovered that I was exhausted from the walk.  The traffic here is kind of nuts.  Traffic lights give a semblance of order, but just because there’s a “walk” signal doesn’t mean its all clear.  Plus it’s necessary to always be looking both ways as motos will frequently be driving up the wrong side of the road.  Who know crossing the street could be so tiring?

The Village

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joylani 130pxWe woke to the sound of children singing, light coming in the windows, water splashing out of a wheelbarrow rolling by, and, on the first morning, to a pair of curious eyes peering in through our window.  When are they going to get up??!  All this before 7am.  Not wanting to be a lazy volunteer, I managed to roll out of bed.  Well, not really rolled.  More liked ducked out of the net and stood up.  Many of the kids were already outside and either playing on the swing set or helping with chores.  Some of the kids had school in the morning, others in the afternoon.  There were at least a dozen around at any given time.  Our time was spent teaching basic English interspersed with games, art projects, and just hanging around the playground.  Games, we quickly learned, were a fun way to practice English as well as entertainment for the adults as we laughed at the kids’ competitiveness being marred by their confusion between things such as bringing us the red or green pen (which was which?!) amidst the shouts from their teammates during a “steal the bacon” type game.

I had been advised to bring some art supplies for the kids, and this proved to be a great investment.  In addition to the usual paper, pens and pencil, I had brought along several pairs of scissors.  During some down time in the afternoon of our second day at Svay Kroum, I showed a couple kids how to make a spiral-shaped mobile by cutting a circle, drawing a swirl, and cutting along the outline.  “Snake!  Snake!” they exclaimed and smiled at the finished product.  So began an afternoon of snake after snake.  I would draw the outline, and the kids would cut it out themselves.  Some caught on quickly and began making their own snakes or other cut-outs.

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Matt showed some kids how to make palms trees, which was also a big hit.  “Cutting time” was one of the highlights for me—it was so much fun to see the kids get into drawing and cutting out shapes, especially knowing that it provided some variety to just playing outside (not that there’s anything wrong with that!).

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(Some outside kids from the village who arrived late in the day, but still wanted a chance to make a snake!)

The orphanage was basic.  It was completed a few months before we arrived.  A brick wall was still being built around the generously sized compound.  Most of the area was covered in dusty sand; there were a few coconut trees, and newly planted papaya and banana trees, yet to bear any fruits.  With no running water, each morning the boys would pump water to fill troughs in the outhouses and the large jar by the cooking and eating area.  Power came in the form of a few hours of generator use on special nights and from a car battery rigged up to a fluorescent light.  In addition to a cooking area, there was a multipurpose building at the entrance of the compound used for both meetings and housing, a playground with lots of swings, and a main building.  The main building provided shelter from the sun during the day and other elements at night.  Two staircases led up to an outside corridor on each side of the building, on leading to the boys’ room, the other to the girls’.  Bunk beds filled each room.  In the girls’ room pictures from a coloring book adorned the wall.  Woven mats lay in place of mattresses.  We slept on a mat too, in one of the rooms downstairs.  It was hard.  Literally.  But the actually sleeping wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be.  A mosquito net provided us with extra physical and psychological comfort.  (Regarding Matt’s post…are there any other ways to sleep than the three you mentioned, regardless of mattress?  Sitting up maybe?  I did that a lot in college…)

Traveling in Nepal and observing villagers throughout the trip prepared us for staying in a village in many ways.  One of which is the bucket bath.  For privacy, I would take my bucket of freshly pumped water to the “grown-up” toilet next to the multipurpose building.  This small space consisted of the bottom half of a western toilet (no seat, and no water tank), a cement floor, and a drain in the back corner.  One night I waited too long and it was dark out by the time I took my shower, I opted to do as most villagers seem to do, and bathed fully clothed by the water pump where there was a little bit more light.  Matt went this route every night.  By the last night he had an audience of little kids who helped by pumping his water, holding the flashlight, and one kid even held the bottle of shampoo.  I thought it was cute that Matt had so many assistants to help him out.

As for the food, I feel bad to say it wasn’t so tasty, but it was lovingly prepared by the lady with the help of the girls, and on our last night someone else even came in to make us loc lak.  It was interesting to eat new things.  Cucumber stuffed with ground pork in broth, preserved ciku fruits, fish soup, noodles with water lily stems and other goodies, and a mystery dyed-pink rice dessert.

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(Some of the girls making dessert.  Pen Face looks on in the background.)

The kids ate most of the same stuff we had, only I suspect we got more meats, particularly on the loc lac night.  The majority of the meals consisted of soup with fish and greens and lots of rice.  Throughout the day I’d see some of the kids snacking on fruits and leftovers.  It will be good for them when the fruit trees mature.  One night Matt had the idea to bring out cans of coke to share with the kids.  They ran around energetically like usual before crashing on the floor in front of the tv, using each other as support.  It was like they could have been any other kids at home on a Saturday night.  Only there were a lot of them, and they didn’t watch tv everyday.  And they were watching dvds, not real time television; instead of carpet and couches, they lounged on the table and tile floor.

There were so many kids, and with me already bad at names in addition to trying to teach English for the first time, neither of us learned the kids’ names.  But we made up for it with nicknames.  The kid in the red jacket (later known as “Sank You”), Pen Face (two days in a row he had gotten pen scribbled all over his face by eager helpers…), the Kid in the Shorts, Ladybug Shirt (“Someone has got to tell that kid he is wearing a girl’s shirt,” Matt said, though neither of us had the heart to break the news to him.), Little Sister, etc.

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(Little Sister with her big sister.)

I had a lot of fun hanging out with them and watching them play with each other.  They were really great kids: eager to learn, helpful (both for us, the caretakers, and their peers), and energetic—as shown by their constant running around and playing games throughout the day.  One of the younger kids helped an older one with a learning disability to write down the lesson.  Pen Face was constantly teasing Little Sister (as older brothers tend to do) and a group of the younger boys got kicks out of walking around like ducks to annoy each other.  Matt eventually got annoyed of it himself, but on the last night (after figuring out what they were actually doing) I sat on the steps with some of the girls and shouted out other animals for the boys to mimic and we all had a lot of fun.

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(Goofing around.)

Volunteering in Village Orphanage

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164_6445-4.JPGWhen asked how and where we would like to help out, we said we could do whatever wherever- we just want to help. We were told that the rural orphanages had the greatest needs, particularly the one in Kompong Chnang. Located in a village with no guesthouses or hotels, few volunteers ever elect to help there. When New Hope’s administrator, Boeurn, asked us if we’d mind helping in a village, we said sure. “Are you sure?” he asked a couple more times. We assured him we’d be okay- we’d stayed in villages throughout Asia. He said he’d arrange for us to stay there for two nights and we could decide later if we wanted to stay another night.

            Pulling into the orphanage, about a dozen of the kids gathered around the car and just stared at us as we got out. I took the initiative to say hello and they all reciprocated. We put our bags down and stood around a pair of tables, the children scattered around us. “So what now?” I asked Sokham, our driver and New Hope staff member. He told us it was up to us; we could teach, we could play, whatever. I now understood why the orphanage needed help; there was barely anyone here. There were a few men who worked at the church and helped out at the orphanage (building a wall, helping with maintenance, etc), but the only person around all the time was a lady who cooked and cleaned. With 15 kids staring at us and no idea what to do, I asked Sokham to ask the kids what they wanted to do. Their response was, “learn English.” Thus began three days of hastily prepared English lessons. They played a good amount, but whenever we asked they always wanted to study. So we spent the mornings and early afternoons teaching. Then in the evenings, all the village kids would come to the orphanage for a lesson. With the exception of a couple kids that knew a fair amount of vocabulary, the kids could not put sentences together and could barely read. This made it easy in a sense, because teaching vocabulary was easy. We taught them colors, but their limited English was frustrating too. We taught them the colors and how to spell each one. If we said the word they could remember how to spell it, but if they saw the word they could not read it. They could memorize how to spell anything and sentences too, but reading was nearly impossible with most. They did like repeat things though and my annoyance with that helped me to cut down on my filler words: um, ah, okay.

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Joylani the teacher

I did not enjoy the teaching too much, but playing with the kids was fun. Sometimes I got them too riled up, so I learned to show them games they could play with each other. They were tough kids, so I showed them how to sit on each others shoulders and chicken fight. I tied their legs together and showed them how to three-legged race. The boys continually wrestled, climbed trees, and ran around. The girls did not have it so good. Although the boys wheelbarrowed water to the latrines in the morning, the girls worked all day. Helping prepare food, washing dishes, cleaning, and so on. Plus only one of the girls went to school, while all the boys who were old enough did. Regardless of gender, all the kids stopped studying or playing whenever Joylani got out the craft stuff. Joylani thinks they liked drawing and coloring so much, because they don’t usually do it. Whatever the reason, those kids loved her art projects and they’d always show her when they finished. They’d walk right by (which was fine with me) and line up to get her praise.

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kids lined up in front of orphanage for a game

It wasn’t all fun and games though. This week has taught me kids are a handful. We awoke every morning at 5:30, when all the kids woke up and would be singing. I’d try to sleep in as long as possible, but I was usually up by 6:30. Then it was non-stop playing and teaching until we went to sleep around 9pm. The kids never napped and they had unquenched energy, continually playing on the jungle gym, running around, and wrestling. Every night, we were exhausted. Our “bed” was a bamboo mat (think beach mat) on a tile floor in a spare room. I learned there’s three positions you can sleep in on the floor: on your back, on your side, or on your stomach. On my back was most comfortable. I laid on my side a few times, but it felt like I was bruising my hips and ankles. I also slept on my stomach a couple times, but that was hard my neck. None of the positions relieved the heat. The orphanage staff did graciously turn on the generator for us in the evenings, so we could see. But they shut it off when we went to sleep, so we had no fan to relieve us from the stifling heat. It was hard, but it was the same conditions that the kids and staff lived in. The kids had the same thin mats over their wooden bunks. And the food wasn’t great, but it was much more than the kids got (which might explain why they were the smallest kids I’ve ever seen).

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if nothing else, at least we were entertained :)

Overall, we enjoyed our time at the orphanage. The kids were dirty, but they were fun. The living was difficult, but we felt like we were filling a need. We stayed that extra night and were sad to go. The kids were sad to see us leave, but they told Sokham they’d had a good time with us. Hearing some of the things they said really made me feel like our time was worthwhile. I mean, it was relatively short and anyone could have played and taught the kids. But the kids enjoyed the few days and few people ever volunteer to help these kids. Boeurn told us lots of people like to volunteer, but they just stay in Phnom Penh or do a quick day trip to a rural orphanage for a few hours. Many people want to volunteer, but we filled a need that others weren’t willing to. I’m not trying to toot our own horn, but I am saying that the past few days gave a purpose to all the difficult situations we put ourselves in throughout this trip (ie, bad accommodation, bad food, etc). 

Tasty Foods

joylani 130pxAs with Laos (where I started getting sick again), I am a little bit leary of street food in Cambodia—especially after a bus stop in a town where the toilet consisted of an enclosed cement slab (waste to be rinsed off through a hole between the wall and floor i.e. not even a hole for it to go into).  I mean, if that was the sanitation in a town, I hate to think about how some of the street food is prepared and stored.  It’s a shame, because I’m sure the food is great.  But at least we’ve been able to eat enough tasty things from restaurants to keep my tummy happy.

            The culinary goodness started with our first night in Ban Lung.  A restaurant across the street from our hotel had been recommended by the Belgian guy, an ex-ngo worker who was familiar with the place.  It turned out to be a great recommendation and a perfect place to get used to the food of a new country, mostly because the first time we ate there the food was really good.  After that, Matt and I both felt “safe” ordering unfamiliar items on the menu.  Well, actually, I must confess I kept ordering the same thing—the fried chicken with tamarind sauce because it was really good.  But between the two of us eating several meals there over our short 2 day stay, we were able to try a few new things.  You see, sometimes it can be hard to “break in” to eating new foods when I don’t know what stuff is, the staff can’t describe the food (descriptive food words aren’t exactly the most important English vocabulary to master), and despite wanting to try something new, I’m usually REALLY hungry and don’t want my order to turn out gross because we’re on a budget and I feel bad leaving it uneaten.   Anyways, the fried chicken with tamarind sauce was a thin piece of chicken patted in flour, quickly fried to cook, then sliced and covered in tamarind sauce topped with green onions, cilantro, etc.  The tamarind sauce was reminiscent of sweet and sour sauce, only it had more tang and less sweet than its “Chinese” counterpart with which I am more familiar.  I liked the flavor of tamarind and assume it’s a more natural way of achieving such a nice flavor with out having to use ketchup, vinegar and loads of sugar.  But who knows, I’m not really sure what they put into that sauce. 

As far as the other good foods we ate, there were a few good pumpkin dishes—soup (coconut based broth with other fresh flavors) and curry.  Another favorite was a ramekin filled with a warming baked sweet potato combo—sort of similar to a quiche, but just egg and no cheese.  Loc lak has turned out to be the most frequently ordered dish.  It mostly consists of lots of beef, eaten on rice and with a fried egg on top.  It is thinly sliced and stir fried in a light brownish sauce which adds some tang and flavor, but the best part is the little side dish of ground pepper and lime juice.  Stir the pepper and juice together (maybe they added another special ingredient, I’m not sure) and dip the meat in—so tender and flavorful, it’s excellent!

On the other hand, one dish that I liked but that wasn’t particularly flavorful was taro spring rolls, ordered from our hotel in Phnom Penh, Narin 2.  Basically they were just a light phyllo-type wrapper filled with some mashed taro and fried.  It was a bit bland, but the texture was nice and dipping the rolls in chili sauce made up for the missing flavor (as a good chili sauce should).  I think taro is generally only flavorful when fermented as poi or iced out with loads of sugar as in drinks and bun fillings.  But I have fondness for taro, I think because of my grandfather.  He was fond of gardening, or at least throwing papaya seeds out on the dirt and watering the seedlings as they grew into trees.  There was also a large mango tree in the back yard, and I think some other items growing around, though I don’t remember what. Among other things, he had a small patch of taro growing outside his house and told me how to make poi from the root.  After he died my auntie made the most delicious lau lau from the leaves of his taro plants.  So taro reminds me of my grandfather and my Chinese side, and I like ordering it when I can.

As far as fruits go, I’ve tried a few new ones so far.  Longgan and rambutan are both lychee-type fruits.  Longgan are round, plain, and brown colored on the outside while the rambutan is red and spiky (think if a koosh ball were a fruit).  With both, once the outside skin is peeled back, the inside is almost a bit transparent and white in color.  The taste is fruity goodness: mellow and slightly floral.  Bananas aren’t a new fruit, but Matt and I have tried a couple of new varieties since we got here.  Both are small—like the apple bananas you can find at home.  The ones we got in Ban Lung were stumpy and about the same thickness of a “regular” banana (a la Safeway style).  Unpleasantly, these bananas had little black bb-sized seeds in the last bite.  More enjoyable and flavorful were these little petite bananas we got in Siem Reap.  They’re cute little finger-length bananas, gone in a few bites.  They have a creamy yellow flesh and almost buttery flavor, buttery for a banana anyways.  I also tried an unripe mango.  It was nice and crunchy, obviously more tart, but still with that strong mango essence.  I prefer the ripe ones still. 

That’s all on the new food for now.  But, lastly, I would like to answer a food question asked a while back by our good friend, faithful reader, and fellow eater, Anuj.  Hi Anuj.  The question involves the “pregnant egg” or, in layman’s terms, hardboiled fertilized egg.  So if you’re not interested, just don’t scroll down any further. 

Our buddy Anuj eating a Pork Belly's sandwich

This is Anuj

This is Anuj’s question: Great details describing the food, Joylani. Very vivid… Haha. Do you have any idea what the baby bird is supposed to taste like, if at all different? It is just as nutritious?This video is all I had to join you on your duck embryo adventures: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXucin9iIaE

Answer:  Well, Anuj, upon seeing a rather large looking yolk with early stage feathers (that was after a lot of embryonic fluid drained out), I didn’t actually try the egg myself.  However, I heard from another tourist who tried one at a less developed stage that it tastes like bloody egg yolk, kind of like eating an egg with a raw canker sore.  If you are interested in trying one of these eggs, don’t let that description put you off.  I’ve seen many an eater enjoying their egg.  Just be sure to: 1.) use a little spoon 2.) add a little of the salt and pepper they give you, and 3.) for goodness sake, don’t fully remove the shell.  No one who’s anyone does.  A little hole will do.  I would assume that at a more developed egg tastes like a chicken and egg together, with a little crunch.  While McDonalds won’t be using this to save time making an Egg McMuffin anytime soon, you might be able to make one yourself.  Unless PETA has a problem with it.  Anyways, does anyone know if you can cook such an egg in the US?  I ask because I am pretty sure cooking/eating dog is illegal in the States, at least in some places.  But I don’t know about fertilized eggs.

Please let me know if you have any more questions.  Remember folks, no question is a stupid question unless it isn’t asked.  In which case you are stupid and not the question, because you are the one who doesn’t know the answer.

The Udvar-Hazy museum will now close…

Or buddy Anuj proudly presenting his company's wares

Phnom Penh

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164_6445-4.JPGI’ve rarely met anyone who’s traveled to Cambodia and liked it. Angkor aside, most friends and travelers I talk to haven’t had great things to say about the country, usually remarking that Khmers are sketchy or a little off at the least. And the reviews of Phnom Penh have been even worse; dangerous, eerie, and everyone is missing limbs. Like Cambodia though, I actually like Phnom Penh. Either Joylani and I have really opposite tastes from most people we talk to (unlikely since our tastes differ quite a bit) or peoples’ descriptions set our expectations unrealistically low. Arriving yesterday afternoon, we found Phnom Penh wasn’t the seedy town we had been expecting. Compared to the rest of the country, it is incredibly modern. Lots of new buildings, upscale hotels and restaurants, tons of internet cafes, supermarkets, electronics stores, and streets clogged with bicycles and motos. The streets were the most chaotic since India- it was nice to see the masses of life again.

            Today we did sort of a walking tour of the city. Our first stop was educational, but extremely depressing. We walked a couple kilometers south of our guesthouse to a school in the midst of a residential and commercial area. The school was actually converted to a prison used for torture and extermination by the Khmer Rouge when they took the city in 1975. In 1980, just one year after the liberation of PP by the Vietnamese, it was converted to a museum. There was a lot in the museum that I don’t want to think about, much less talk about, so I’ll just a give some basic information.

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The school consists of several three story buildings around a central courtyard. All the windows had steel bars or barbed wire to keep victims in the converted classrooms. Victims were kept at Toul Sleng to be interrogated before being executed. The two estimates I have seen are: of 14,000 total prisoners (over the course of 4 years), a dozen survived or of 20,000 prisoners, 7 survived. Either way, if you were taken to Toul Sleng, you were going to die. Many died from bullets or trauma to the head, some were beaten or tortured to death.

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Some of the classrooms were sleeping quarters, where victims were forced to sleep on the bare floor shackled together. Other classrooms were torture chambers, where victims were tortured.

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After seeing the miserable conditions that these people spent their last weeks or months in, we entered a gallery full of victims mugshots. The Khmer Rouge photographed many of their victims, but we also saw many photos of the children and adolescents they used for guards and torturers. Hundreds of black-and-white photographs stared at us from the exhibit. We also saw some paintings depicting the disgusting and horrific events that occurred there, some shelves of skulls with fractures or bullet holes, one exhibit telling the stories of some of the prisoners (as told by family members) and one exhibit documenting surviving guards stories. We learned that many of the victims at Toul Sleng had at one time been Khmer Rouge, but had arrested and executed for any number of trumped up/paranoid reasons. And many of the guards talked about Toul Sleng was horrible, but they don’t regret it because they would have been tortured and executed if they had disobeyed any orders. The constant fear of being killed, accused, or suspected of anything was horrible. The whole place was horrible. Unlike any Toul Sleng prisoner, we walked out of the school yard and through the quite neighborhood, both quite depressed.  

            We headed off to the rest of the cities sites, which proved to be unimpressive. We briefly visited the Russian Market and then across town to the Royal Palace, residence of the king, but it was closed. Next door was the National Museum, but that was kind of a let down. After months of seeing Buddhas of all shapes and sizes from a myriad of different centuries and just arriving from Angkor, the National Museum had nothing amazing. It was a long walk back to our guesthouse, especially as we’re officially in Cambodia’s hot season now. Phnom Penh doesn’t seem like it has much to see (some genocidal attractions and a few monuments), but it is any city to like. It has good food, its easy to get around, and it has consumer goods/services of a city, which is a lot more than I can say for the last capitol we were in.

Angkor: (Matt’s Account of) Day 3

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164_6445-4.JPGRelative to our last two days, today was mellow. We had two unsuccessful museum attempts. First, we discovered our 3-day Angkor tickets were invalid for the brand new Angkor museum. The tickets were super expensive and after over 20 hours of seeing Angkor’s ruins, we didn’t feel too compelled to shell out a lot of cash to see (we assumed) the same stuff behind glass. So we tried to walk to the landmine museum to learn about Cambodia’s landmine problem. After walking a few kilometers, we asked directions and learned that they had changed locations last year; it was now 50 kilometers away. 0 for 2, we headed back to our guesthouse. We spent the day in town, something we haven’t really done since arriving in Siem Reap. Our passes expired today, so we spent late afternoon until sunset at our favorite temple, Preah Khan. It was a mellow day. We didn’t see all that we originally had thought, but I was glad to glimpse all the sights one last time and finish our day at Preah Khan.

Angkor: (Joylani’s Accounts of) Day 2 and Day 3

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joylani 130pxLike Matt mentioned, one of my favorite things I saw yesterday were the wall carvings depicting everyday life. I can’t remember if I read it on an info board or just overheard a guide mention it (on occasion we stand within earshot of other people’s guides for some brief tidbits of information), but somehow I found out that there was a depiction of women BBQing fish at Bayon, and I was determined to find it. When I did find it, not only was there a sense of accomplishment, but also delight to discover that the way they BBQed those fish so long ago looks the same as it does today! North of the Bayon temple there is a long wall with elephants carved over it, the Terrace of Elephants. This had interesting carvings, plus it was nice to walk along something rather than climb up and down for a change. We saw a snake slither from the grass up along the rock wall. It was amazing to watch, both of us wondered, “how is it doing that?” Something such as a snake moving along rock does not sound amazing, but to see it in front of you move over a surface which it does not seem to actually touch is a marvel. No wonder it is written in the book of Proverbs: There are three things that are too amazing for me…the way of a snake on a rock (30:18).

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snake on stone

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Matt at Angkor Wat

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Reliefs of people BBQing animals and selling sticks of meat- just like today!

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checking out the reliefs on the Terrace of Elephants

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yup, that’s Matt

Overall yesterday felt a little bit more relaxed than the first day, as we knew whatever we didn’t have time for we could see today—a day for which we had no set plans. Matt and I took our time meandering through some of the structures, and others we just took a quick look at. However, despite not being rushed as we completed the “mini tour” of the more centrally located structures, I found myself growing weary of seeing yet another temple. So today we took it easy, and after some failed attempts at visiting a couple museums (one was way more expensive than it was worth, though the lobby was pretty impressive, and the other had moved to another location), we spent most of the day resting from the previous two days and getting some “errands” done on-line. The day ended perfectly as we casually decided to go hangout at our favorite temple before the sun went down. Perhaps on one of your own travels you have experienced the “Well, as long as we’re here we should…” syndrome. But sometimes that isn’t fun. Our final day of ticket-validity we felt no pressure to go see more ruins. And it was great. After two full days of pushing through the ruins (it was a little tiring but definitely enjoyable), a mellow revisit to Preah Khan was a perfect way to cap off our time at the temples of Angkor.

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My concluding thoughts on the temples of Angkor is that: yes, it really is one of those places you should see, if you’re into that type of thing (ruins, that is…you know, impressively large structures made from oafishly big rocks, these ones with intricate carvings) and Angkor Wat is really really huge. Angkor was one of the few places that I actually was looking forward to exploring before the trip started (many of the other places I only learned about after starting the trip), and it has definitely met all my expectations for greatness.

Angkor: (Matt’s Account of) Day 2

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164_6445-4.JPGThoroughly exhausted from our 13 hours of ruins yesterday, we left a bit later today, at 7:30. Today we saw the major sights. We began at Angkor Wat. I was glad we didn’t attempt the sunrise again, because this morning was overcast as well. There were still a million people there though, as Angkor Wat is the most famous attraction in Angkor. There were so many people, I even met someone I know from home. Traveling, we haven’t met anyone coincidentally for over 7 months, so I was pretty surprised when I heard someone say, “Matt Shibata?!” Anyways, we spent several hours exploring Angkor Wat. It is a large walled temple, set within the grassy grounds of a larger outer wall, which in turn is surrounded by a wide moat. Everything about the place is impressive, from the reliefwork on all the exterior walls to the inscriptions to the sheer size and scale of the place. I can’t even attempt to describe its grandeur. The highlight for me were the hundreds of meters of baas reliefs carved on the hallway walls of the temple. All the way around, they depicted Hindu mythology, Buddhist stories, as well as actual historical events. It was absolutely amazing, although again, photos do it absolutely no justice.

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our transport the past couple of days

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an interesting shot w/ a deep depth-of-field showing several walls at Angkor Wat

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closeup of just a few inches of the reliefs at Angkor Wat

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the reliefs tell continuous stories for hundreds of meters

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Big huge architecture was somewhat impressive too :)

From Angkor Wat, we drove to the center of massive Angkor Thom to Bayon. Most famous for its hundred-plus meters of intricate baas relief and 216 gigantic faces, Bayon was very impressive. Dozens of towers surround a central one and nearly every tower has a half dozen large faces (supposedly king Jayavarman VII). Joylani enjoyed seeing everyday scenes on the relief walls, like women grilling meat and seeing Khmer depictions of Chinese immigrants. From Bayon, we walked to nearby Baphuon, a large pyramidal temple, although it was closed for restoration so I don’t know much more about it. After lunch, we perused the impressive Terrace of Elephants, which is basically a large wall with relief-work decorating the sides and elephant statues “guarding” the stairways leading to the top of the wall.

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Bayon, a central temple with 216 faces of the king

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Joylani with one of the 216 huge faces

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dozens of meters of reliefs here too

We then drove to a myriad of other temples, but after seeing so much in the morning, we were kind of temple and ruined out by this afternoon. The two worth mentioning were Ta Keo, just because it was a super high temple and it was super scary climbing up and back down the gigantic stone steps- think ladder instead of stairs. Although never completed, I’d say it achieved its purpose of representing mythical Mt. Meru. The other notable was the famous Ta Prohm, of Tomb Raider fame. It’s the counterpart to my favorite of yesterday, Preah Khan, as King Jayavarman VII dedicated this similar temple to his mother (Preah Khan was dedicated to his father). It is a highlight for many visitors, but Ta Prohm was just ruins without the artistic remnants of many other temples. Crumbling structures, fallen walls, and a tree growing out of the building that people stand in line to take a photo with. Although less than the 13 hours we spent seeing the ruins yesterday, we were still out exploring for 9 hours today. Additionally, it was probably about the same amount of walking and climbing, as we drove a lot less today. Regardless we are beat. Everything we’ve seen has been amazing though.

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Joylani with the elephants at Terrace of the Elephants

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Ta Prohm is all ruins…

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Ta Keo- tall, never-completed, and interesting

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saw so many temples today, I forgot where this is…but like almost everything we saw, its cool

Angkor: Day 1

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Matt wrote this post in normal font and Joylani added in italics.

We awoke at 4:45am this morning. At 5am, our driver picked us up and we drove to Angkor Wat (the most famous of the Angkor temples; the iconic triple-spired temple that graces the Cambodia flag, Angkor Beer (not to be confused with the only other widely-sold beer in Cambodia, Anchor Beer), and a gazillion touristy souvenir items) to catch the sunrise. At 5am a driver, not the one we hired the night before, was there to pick us up. Apparently he was the [business] uncle of the other driver whose moto had broken down. Likely story. Luckily it didn’t matter too much to us, a moto is a moto, and off we putt-putted in the morning darkness. Even at that early hour, hordes of people joined us to watch the sunrise. We sat on a ledge on one the gate’s walls and waited for the sun to spill light across the sky and onto the ruins. The sunrise never came, as it was overcast, and so we settled for a slow illumination of the morning. We walked around a bit, long enough to realize Angkor Wat is huge and we should save our exploration for tomorrow. The plan was to do a circuit of some of the outer, less touristed sights today and see the major attractions tomorrow. Quite literally throwing a damper on our plans though was the rain. Rain began to pour down as we ran across the bridge over the moat from the temple to our waiting driver. It was around 7:30 or so by this time and the rain was heavy, but we decided to continue according to plan. Only we hadn’t planned on the rain, so we had to buy something to help keep us dry. Two ponchos would suffice. Matt’s was blue, “So this is what it feels like to wear a dress,” he said as he pulled the plastic down over his shorts. The poncho I wore was pink, and made for someone whose arms are 6” shorter than mine. We looked hot. Our driver zipped up the rain shields on our carriage and off we went to the most distant of our destination, Kbal Spean: the river of 1000 lingas.

After two hours of muddy unpaved roads, we parked at Kbal Spean. “Ready to hike?” Joylani asked me. “Hike? What are you talking about?” “Yea, we have to hike 30 minutes to the temples here,” she replied. I had not researched the temples beforehand (as Joylani had), so this hiking business was news to me. Still raining, and cold after two hours in the tuk-tuk, I wasn’t inclined to do any hiking. I wasn’t inclined to contract any more leeches, but the ranger assured us there were none. But we’d driven all the way out here, so we set off up a forested hill. I could feel and hear the water dripping off the trees the entire 30 minutes up the hill. But when we finally arrived at a clearing, I realized the rain had stopped, even though water was still dripping from the canopy above. Matt was sad that he no longer had a legitimate reason to wear his blue poncho. A stream ran though the clearing and Joylani noticed some of the stones had carvings on them. We made it to a little river place. It was still early, and the rain had just stopped. Only one other pair of tourists was there when we arrived. The rocks in the water were carved! It was beautiful. A thin layer of water flowed smoothly over the carvings. We hadn’t known what to expect; it was a deserted moment of discovery. Nature had really taken over here, as the stream ran over beautiful reliefs and religious artwork. The stream flowed over the ruins and eventually became a waterfall dropping off an old artistic wall. We wandered around all the visible paths for a while, expecting to find a large structure hidden in the jungle somewhere. Apparently the riverbed carvings and lingas were it. Even without a larger structure, we were satisfied. Without the rain to distract, we noticed all the lingas on the hike down. For the uninformed, lingas are phallic symbols. You may have noticed all the pillars in our photos from Champasak- yup, lingas. On the hike down here, the lingas were represented as large boulders placed on top of smaller rocks, making them look more like mushrooms than their intended figure. Anyways, after a hike down linga lane, and a few jokes about Hawaii’s governor, we hopped back in our carriage and set off again. Luckily our driver had flaps he could roll down for us to keep us dry, since it began raining again.

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After an hour’s drive, we came to Bantereay Srey, a small cluster of temples with some of the best preserved intricate artwork in all of Angkor. We got there and began exploring. The rain clouds were moving south, and we had driven back into the showers. Despite making it tough for Matt to take photos (each shot had to be taken from under an accessible doorway or window overhang which was hard to find in the midst of the ruins), the rain darkened the stones and the grey sky added a mournful gloominess as we marveled at the work of a past civilization. It was amazing, but I was kind of bummed because the rain was preventing me from taking any photos. We decided to look for an umbrella so that Matt could take more shots, or at least have a bite to eat at one of the numerous restaurants in the parking lot and wait to see if the storm would pass. But just when I was about to buy an umbrella, the rain stopped. So we reentered and I happily began snapping away.

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Bantereay Srey and raingeared tourists

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Poncho’d Joylani and some awesome carvings

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Joylani looking over the railing of an ancient bridge

After lunch, we visited: Mebon, Ta Som, and Neak Pean. I’ll spare you descriptions of all these, but try to include some interesting photos. The last temple we saw today was Preah Khan, which was my favorite. Both of our favorite. King Jayavarman VII built it for his father and it eventually became a Buddhist university. It was a large complex, with inticately designed outer walls as well as inner passageways. It was awesome because it was large and contained a lot to explore, plus it has a good balance of being in good condition and “ruins.” By this I mean that its neither restored to perfection, nor totally ruined that the only attraction is to see fallen walls and trees growing out of it. Carved details were everywhere—dancers above the doorways, flowers and trees along the walls, and delicate borders around just about everything. It is a good-sized structure, with surprises down each passageway as we didn’t know which one would lead to seemingly untouched carvings, restored areas, or jenga-like boulders that had toppled over. There were few other tourist making it a more 1-on-1 adventure as we silently explored the ruins. Perhaps the most stunning feature of Preah Khan was a large tree growing over one of the outer walls. It was actually kind of magical when we looked to the left of the path and saw it in front of us. One of the trunks had been damaged in a storm, but it was still a sight that filled us with wonder. After exploring for a couple hours and taking some great photos in the evening light, we stopped at Angkor Wat on our way back for the sunset. We finally arrived back at our guesthouse at 6pm, 13 hours after we’d left. It was a long day. And the ruins had surpassed our expectations.

all the following photos are from Preah Khan

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And these last two are from Angkor Wat:

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Angkor: Introduction

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“Angkor is not orchestral; it is monumental. It is an epic poem which makes its effect, like the Odyssey and Paradise Lost, by the grandeur of its structures as well as by the beauty of the details. Angkor is an epic in rectangular form imposed upon the Cambodian jungle.     -Arnold Toynbee, East to West

us 150pxWe have written a four post series on Angkor, so we’ll give a bit of an introduction. Historically, the temples of Angkor were built between the 9th and 13th centuries, the earlier ones being Hindu and the later ones being a mix of Hindu and Buddhist. The temples are huge and spread out, so the temples of Angkor are not a single sight nor can they be walked; the largest, Angkor Thom is enclosed in a square wall, with each side measuring 3km! Not just large, they’re spread out over a large area. While most are within 10 kilometers of Siem Reap (translates to destruction of Siam (Thailand)), where we’re staying, some are 40, 50, and 60 kilometers away. While biking is an option, it is really hot, so we hired a moto driver to pull us around in cart (very similar to a tuk-tuk). Given the things we’ve seen and heard about Angkor Wat, from textbooks to documentaries to fellow travelers, Angkor had a lot to live up to. Yet, despite the high expectations we had, Angkor still blew us away. As far as ruins go, Angkor’s temples are the most impressive I have ever seen. So we’ll try to utilize more photos than words in these posts, but remember they fall far short of the real deal.