Easter

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joylani 130pxMy good friend Desi asked me how we were going to spend Easter. Seeing that we had a flight that day, I guessed we’d spend it in an airport and probably eat rice. Well, sure enough…after sleeping with the lights on the night before (due to a roach problem in our hotel) we arrived at the airport on Easter morning 2 hours before our flight was to leave, only to find that it was delayed 4 hours. As a consolation, they offered all passengers a lunch voucher. After sitting around for a couple hours and listening through a couple of new albums my brother sent me, Matt and I decided to check out the situation at the cafeteria. I walked up to the counter and checked my name off the passenger list. They handed me a bowl of rice and a piece of chicken that had been cooked (from the look of it) a long time ago. Seeing that there was nothing else that I even wanted to buy from the lunch counter, I walked back to our table and ate just the rice in solace—at least I had expected this to happen. After all, I knew I wasn’t going to be eating my grandma’s scalloped potatoes, jello salad, and a spiral cut ham today. And rice is always good.*
The only good thing from Tawau: ABC (iced dessert with goodies at the bottom and drenched in rose-flavored syrup).

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*Well, except for the one place where we were considering getting our wedding catered from until they gave us food to sample and the rice wasn’t even cooked all the way.

The Lone Snorkeler

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joylani 130pxSo while Matt went diving the last couple of days, I tagged along with the boat and snorkeled nearby. This was the first time I’ve ever snorkeled by myself and even though I missed having a buddy to point things out to, I really enjoyed the solitary experience. Unlike the divers who had to share their dive space with the 3-4 others in their groups, I had the surface to myself. Serenely floating, I took my time as I hovered above amazing fields of corals in colors and quantities I’d never seen before. The corals had a strange glow about them, not like obnoxious neon lights, though somehow similar, only magical. Soft corals with pastel bases and brighter yellow tips also came in hues of green, purple, and orange. I can’t even remember exactly how it was except that it looked absolutely stunning with the sunlight shining through the water and illuminating the expanse of coral beneath me. It was much different from my experience snorkeling in the Maldives where the actual reef isn’t in great condition but there is still a lot of other plants and marine life to look at. Of course, Sipidan wasn’t without animals. I spied on several turtles coming up for air, chased the path of a reef shark, and spotted my first octopus. The fish ranged in size from a lone barracuda almost as long as myself to a small group of tiny silver fish that looked like beads of mercury darting around the boat.
I won’t compare my experience to diving because the two ways of seeing things are just that—two ways, and different. But, to my relief, I didn’t miss out on everything and I still got to enjoy the same amazing visibility as the divers, in addition to seeing some of the same “big guys,” like the school of bumphead parrot fish. And all the while I enjoyed the solitude of being the lone snorkeler, out of the way of other peoples’ bubbles.

Pulau Sipadan

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164_6445-4.JPGToday I dived off Pulau Sipadan, one of the top dive sites in the world. Each dive was along the reef wall, which drops off over 600 meters from the small atoll’s surface. Needless to say, it was absolutely spectacular. The weather was much better than yesterday and consequently, the visibility was unbelievable. And while we focused on small things yesterday, like nudibranches, coral, and other bottom-dwellers, today was all about the big. Each of todays three dives was filled with dozens of turtles, several sharks, huge barracudas, large schools of fish, and so on. All against the backdrop of a living 600 meter wall.

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swimming in the midst of a huge school of bumphead parrotfish, each at least a meter long!

On the way back from our dives, I reflected a little bit on what diving means to me. At first, I was more excited about the activity and all the cools things about “flying” underwater. But that wore off pretty quickly, as diving for its own sake wouldn’t be very fun. Swimming underwater is a little fun, but nothing compared to seeing and experiencing the sea life down there. Thus, I see diving as a vehicle to see and explore. It opens up a whole new world to me that didn’t exist before. Snorkeling kind of introduced me to that world, but diving is the way to really explore it. The ability to dive now gives us a chance to further explore the places we visit and opens up a multitude of new places to visit.

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Mabul and Kapalai

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164_6445-4.JPGWe arrived in Semporna, in Malaysian Borneo, last night and were out diving in the Celebes Sea today. Well, I was diving. Joylani is having an ear problem, which is an automatic no-go as far as diving is concerned. So while I was below, she checked out things from the surface above. Today were deepest dives I’ve done yet (around 25 meters), so I was pretty stoked. The weather above the surface was pretty rough, but it didn’t hamper us too much. Firstly, because rain doesn’t bother you when 25 meters below and we were muck-diving today. Muck-dives are generally focused on smaller aquatic life near the sea floor. The last two dives were muck dives, one below an oil-rig-turned-hotel and the other along an atoll’s reef. Our first dive was pretty cool too, as we saw a bunch of wrecks.

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baracuda shoal

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blue-spotted rock ray

Kuala Lumpur

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164_6445-4.JPGKuala Lumpur, or KL as everyone calls it, is easily one of my favorite cities. It’s hard to sum up in words, but I’ll try. It’s a progressive city, but it retains many aspects of its heritage. Its a modern city, but food stalls selling everything from delicious satay to tasty desserts can be found on corners and alleys around town. Its in the latter stages of development, but the city doesn’t have the pollution and cubic concrete architecture of other developing cities of similar size, like Bangkok or Bombay. Rather, modern Islamic design inspires the artistic and creative designs of the city. Joylani likes it because the city’s artistic patronage is evident in everything from its buildings to its gardens.

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the aquarium 

I enjoy it because it’s a diverse place moving in a positive direction. For the first time since Switzerland, we’re in a truly international country- that is, a non-homogenous population. Chinese and Indians are everywhere, although they also have geographic enclaves within the city- Chinatown and Little India. Its great; where else can I get an Indian shave and haircut,  then chow down on some satay with chai? Or was that rotis (here, rotis are the same as Keralan parotas- mmmm, so good) with pearl milk tea? Either way, the fusion of three cultures produces an excellent mix of food and social dynamics. Its kind of like Fremont, in that all the groups of youngsters are combinations of Indians and Asians. Aside from diversity, which I place a high value on, I like the atmosphere of KL. It’s not a trendy place like Paris or Bangkok, where shopping and weird clothese seem to be the norm. People dress normal, which to me means like home. Jeans and t-shirts, suits, polos and khakis. Not third-world quality and not obnoxiously “fashionable” either. Just normal.

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Jalan Sultan, the street our hotel is on and a major night market area 

 It seems that the focus in KL is on commerce. People are building their businesses and focusing on opportunity. Every interview I’ve read with the PM recently has talked about building investor confidence and attracting commerce. As part of its “Vision 2020” (Malaysia has a goal to be officially classified as first world by 2020), KL is being groomed as a business center. The “multimedia supercorridor” is being constructed, with new towns like Cyber Jaya popping up. Another town is being built as the first “paperless” city. Which brings me to my last point: Malaysia is not developing at the expense the environment or certain parts of the population. Building is undertaken with environmental awareness and city signs indicate 500 ringit fines for littering (150 USD)! I’ve also read quite a bit already about how all Malaysians should get to contribute and benefit from Malaysia’s development. People are concerned about health and social issues, not just money. Malaysians seem to understand that a nation is made up of the sum of its populace and the diffusion of responsibility regarding social ills (that we’ve seen in every other country) is oddly absent here. Malaysians are concerned about their country, work for it, and are proud of it. It’s awesome to see a place developing responsibly, unlike the so many developed countries in the past and nearly every developing country today.

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Petronas Towes, the tallest twin towers in the world and incredibly cool looking

To sum it up, KL’s got good food, cool people and vibrant atmosphere, its modern, visually appealing, and its on its way globally speaking.

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the water fountains and park at KL City Center, where we hung out a few nights

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Merdeka Square, where Malaysian Independence was declared and a good example of a the mix between park area, colonial, and modern buildings that compose beautiful KL

KL is still great

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joylani 130pxBut I got some bad news from a doctor today about not being able to go diving for a week due to some ear problems I’m having. I almost started to cry in his office. We have dives scheduled on the 20th and 21st, but now I will have to snorkel instead. My visit to the doctor was just one of three personal maintenance stops I’ve had in KL (saw a dentist and got new glasses too). That combined with all the diving confirms that Malaysia will be our most expensive country so far. Oh well, at least we really like it here! We’ve found most Malaysians to be very friendly and helpful. It has been somewhat common for strangers to ask us where we’re going with the intention of helping us get there (as opposed to hoping to take us somewhere to get a comission) before we even ask for help. Many people speak great English which is additionally helpful. As for KL, there is an easy to use network of public transportation within the city adding to the traveler-friendliness of the country. We visited the Petronas towers on our first day here, and have gone back to the area each day.

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 view from the SkyBridge of Petronas Towers

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park in KLCC, including free public waterpark!

In addition to the beautiful towers, there’s an adjacent shopping center that could be somewhere in San Jose based on the stores (Banana Republic, Gap, Coffee Bean, Starbucks, Chilis…and most surprisingly a California Pizza Kitchen) and the ethnic makeup of shoppers (lots of Chinese and Indians). We like it there for the cool AC, a nice park and fountain outside, and this great Borderesque bookstore with a huge selection of books. There are tons of designer shops, electronics stores, home décor, even a grocery store with fresh sushi in the deli. The various food courts are pretty nice too. In addition to all that, there’s a discovery museum, theatre, and art gallery ensuring that as long as you visit the Petronas area, there will be something to do. So I guess that explains why we went to hang out there three days in a row… Besides visiting Petronas, we did manage to see a few sights. I especially enjoyed visiting the hibiscus and orchid gardens within the larger botanical garden. Orchids never cease to amaze me with their structured yet playful shapes, striking colors, and range of sizes. Here are a few of my favorites:

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Kuala Lumpur Botanic Gardens (9)

 

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Kuala Lumpur Botanic Gardens (5)

 

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Other pics can be found in the new Flowers Album, which will be posted soon…

KL is Great!

joylani 130pxWe got into KL early this evening, so all we really had time to do after finding a hotel was eat.  But that was good enough for me.  I got two of the things I’ve been wanting and expecting to eat since arriving in Malaysia but haven’t actually had: satay and a shaved ice dessert (cendol tonight).

Joylani’s Birthday

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164_6445-4.JPGLike most holidays on this trip, Joylani’s birthday was pretty mellow. She did receive a bunch of cards and a couple gifts a couple weeks ago, which my parents delivered from family at home. But today, she spent the morning finishing up her PADI Open Water course and then I joined her for a couple of shore dives in the afternoon. It was fun to dive together for the first time and we saw a lot of soft corals, which I haven’t really seen before. We also spotted a nudibranch, which is like a small colorful slug. There are over  three thousand different kinds, of differing shape and colors. Anyways, afterwards we headed to beach bar for a couple of drinks while we watched the sun slip into the sea. Then it was on to an oceanside dinner of BBQ’d seafood, before heading to bed. Being abroad, holidays and birthdays are always a bit anti-climatic, but Joylani said she had a good day. Just a mellow birthday on a mellow tropical island.