Fears of Home

164_6445-4.JPGA couple days ago, I announced our visit home (this summer) and gave the approximate timing of our permanent return home (next summer). Today, I’ll share my anxiety and fear about returning home. Honestly, I don’t want to go home. Not this summer and not ever. Its not that I hate home or miss hanging out with our families and friends; I really like home and it was sad to leave all the good stuff behind when we left. But there’s two things that make me not want to go home.

One: I love travel. In our conversations with other travelers, it seems like most people fall into one of three categories. Some people do not like to travel. Personally, I cannot understand that attitude and try not to judge them for it. Some people like to travel and enjoy various aspects of it, but aren’t in love with it. Even if traveling long-term, they long to return home as they miss the people and different aspects of “home.” I’d say most travelers fall into this category, including Joylani. Then there’s the people like me, who I can really identify with. They love and live to travel. When they’re not traveling, they’re working to save for a trip and thinking about foreign (most inclusive definition) places constantly and their minds are always dreaming up destinations, trips, and journeys. They don’t prioritize the places they want to visit too much, because they’ll go anywhere and everywhere. The Americas, Africa, Europe, Asia, Oz/NZ, they all sound good and we’ll visit any of them because everywhere has something to see, something to experience, something to learn. Home to them, home to me, is not new. Its old. Its not foreign, its familiar. Its not different and learning takes more than simple observation. I don’t want to go home, not because I dislike it, but because its home.

Two: Whether you like home or not, its going to be a bit of shock after a trip like this. The other day, Joylani and I were talking about our itinerary and what places to see. And it occurred to us that even if we go home today, we’ve seen a ton. I cannot list out the awesome things we’ve seen and memories created. Thinking back of all we’ve seen and done blows me away. Browsing through our photos of the trip so far is unbelievable. I remember telling my siblings in Turkey that I felt like Ferris in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, especially when he shares his sediments with Cameron: “We’ve seen everything!” That was after only one month of travel. Now, after eight months, that feeling of “We’ve seen everything” is even stronger (to be taken as hyperbole, not literally as we’ve only seen a small fraction of the world, which in itself seems mind-blowing to me). Click here and see why it’ll be difficult to return home. Once or twice a week for the past eight months, we’ve seen or done something amazing. We’ve been on a tour of the world’s highlights- how can I go from seeing and experiencing the extraordinary every few days to the routine of home? I’m a little slow, but it just dawned on me that this is the best time I’ve ever had in my life. I fear that its going to be difficult to go through the monotony of home life, because I’ll always be wishing I was back in 2007-2009, living the best years of my life. I know that’s a pessimistic outlook for the rest of my life and neglects the possibility that there’s greater things out there for me, but this is just how I’m feeling now.

I don’t want this trip to end and I fear all that accompanies returning home. If anything can be gained from this though, it is: the knowledge that our time is limited will help me to value, appreciate, and be thankful for every moment of this adventure.

First Impressions of Malaysia

IMG_4643

164_6445-4.JPGWe’ve only been to two places in Malaysia and Joylani warns me not to make premature judgments about places, but Malaysia is already one of my favorite countries. Here’s my initial impressions of the place, and thus my rationale for ranking it so high:

This is a bit superficial, but my very first observation about the country was that everyone speaks English. It’s such a nice change after being largely unable to communicate in Thailand, Lao, and Cambodia, and its probably the best English we’ve heard on this trip after Scandinavia. Thank you Britain!

The culture is different from what we’ve seen recently. Unlike Hindu South Asia and Buddhist mainland SEA, Malaysia is a moderate Muslim state. Women cover their heads and dress conservatively, mosques and minarets adorn the horizon, their calls heard five times a day, and an arrow on each hotel room ceiling indicates the direction of Mecca. When I think about this feature of Malaysia, its no wonder I like Malaysia; for one reason or another, many of my favorite places on this trip have been largely Muslim: Turkey, Kashmir, Kerala, and the Maldives.

Malaysia is incredibly diverse. I read that Kota Bharu is actually one of only three Malaysia cities that have a Malay majority. The national demographics show that just under half of the population is Malay, about a quarter are Chinese, with Indians and native Orang Asli each composing about ten percent of the population. Reminds me of home. Its also good for us, because Joylani gets mistaken as a Chinese, and I as a Malay.

The food is great. With such a diverse population, what else could one expect?

The people are really helpful and nice. Questions are usually given a helpful detailed reply. Several people have gone out of their way to show us directions, as well. Although this may be a function of speaking a common language, Malaysians seem to always go to great effort to help.

Back in Kota Bharu

joylani 130pxThough I had been dreading the boat ride back to the peninsula, it turned out to be ok.  The boat for Bubu’s tours was getting set to go just as we walked back out on the pier.  Fortunately this boat is much bigger than the more frequent speed boats that ferry passengers to and from the island.  This meant we went faster and more importantly that even though the water was rougher (there were white caps today), the ride was WAY smoother.  As we were a bit higher up on the water, the view of the swells was pretty awesome from the higher vantage point.  More than the corregated wave shape I thought the water had before, it was twisting and rising in all different ways, wrapping itself around our boat as we plowed through the waves.  I realized just how huge the volume of undulating water is and saw its shape as more irregular than what seemed before to just be a series of bumps.

We whisked ourselves away to la la island land so quickly after arriving in Malaysia that we never had a chance to get an idea of the general standard for pricing of things like food and beverages.  Upon our re-arrival in Kota Bharu, we realized how much above normal prices we’ve been paying for food the last few days in Perhention.  For lunch after getting back to the mainland we got a little hotdog on a burger bun and a mango juice—1.5 ringit each.  Definitely cheaper than on the Perhentian where food costs 3-5 times as much.  Granted, food stuffs do have to be transported over to the island, which is no easy feat as I’ve mentioned in previous posts.

Back in a real town, we’ve been working on getting a bus ticket out of here to our next destination as well as making plans for one of our most anticipated destinations, Malaysian Borneo where we will go diving in the reef around the famed Sipidan Island.  Since it is a protected park area, we need to make a reservation with a dive shop ahead of time in order to secure our permits.  Only a limited number of spots are available each day, and we’d forgotten about cross checking our travel dates for holidays (since things can get really booked).  Falling into the whirl of our travel vortex where time and dates get all fuzzy, we forgot about Easter holiday and spring break.  Fortunately we found one place with spots still open, as everyone seems to be pretty booked out there.  I think it’s a good reminder for us (to check for holidays) since as our trip has progressed we’ve had to plan more ahead in terms of specific dates and destinations as flights and specific visa windows are arising more frequently.

The Next 4-5 Months…

IMG_4627

 

164_6445-4.JPGTo break up the monotony of our posts, I thought I’d throw in an update on our macro itinerary. This is mainly aimed at you family, but also may be of use to our friends who’s instant messages begin with “where are you?” or emails that end with, “btw, what country are you in?”

Our situation: We’re planning a visit to the US this summer. One reason for our decision is that July will mark one full year of traveling abroad and Joylani wants to visit home to see and catch-up with family and friends. The other reason is that two of our best friends are getting married (not to each other) within a day of each other in early August. After a month or so at home, we’re planning to hit the road again for another 6-9 months, making it back to the US by summer 2009 (although that portion of the itinerary is beyond the scope of this post).

Our Itinerary: What follows is our loose plan of a pretty circuitous route from here, Pulau Perhentian, to San Francisco. From here (NE coast of peninsular Malaysia), we’ll head down the Malay Peninsula to Singapore, with stops in Pulau Tioman and KL, along with a detour to Borneo. From Singapore, we’ll travel to Indonesia. At the moment, its unclear how far east in Indonesia we’ll travel, but at some point we’ll have to stop and catch a flight to Ho Chi Minh City. Before we began this trip, when I daydreamed about this part of the trip while looking at the world map in our dining room, I envisioned us island hopping across Indonesia to Papua New Guinea, then the Solomons, and out into Micronesia. Or perhaps a more southern route out to East Timor and down into Australia. Google “east timor” or “papua” and you’ll see why we’re not pursuing my daydreamt plans. As I digress, complete the Malay Peninsula by March, Indonesia by April (one month visa), Vietnam by May (one month visa), and into China by early June. We’ll spend the balance of our time traveling north through China. That should take us into July, when we’ll likely fly home from Beijing, Seoul, or Tokyo.

Other Thoughts: We’re at about the end of anything we had planned prior to embarking on this trip. Once we knew we were starting in Europe, we knew South Asia was next, to be followed by SEA. But we never really thought about after that. And to plan beyond is to consider and talk about the other places we want to see on this trip. China and Japan are musts. Korea’s right there and seems worth visiting. South America is also up there. Besides East Asia and South America, I think we’ll only have time for one more region: Australia/New Zealand or back to Europe for more? So right now we’re debating between a circle of the Pacific or another true round the world itinerary.

Island Life

IMG_4631

 

(Matt used a picture similar to the one I was going to use, so I thought this pic showing I’m not the only one with big hair would be a good alternative :) )

joylani 130pxWe both really like it here on Pulau Perhentian Kecil (pulau=island, kecil=small).  Our little “chalet” is set on a hill back from the beach, slightly sheltered from the blustery winds by trees and the other buildings.  The room is basic but fits our basic needs with electricity throughout the evening, a mozzie net, bed, fan, and an attached cold water bathroom.  Perhaps the best part is our little balcony from which we can enjoy the passing breeze, floating butterflies, birds, jittery squirrels, and the occasional monitor lizard.  Our cabin:

IMG_4633

Like I mentioned before, it gets a little windy here, and off of Long Beach (the side of the island where we are staying) there are huge waves rolling in all day with the passing weather systems, and it usually rains a little in the afternoon or evening.  Because of the waves, Matt has to walk across to the calmer side of the island where the dive shops are actually open.  While Matt spends his time learning to dive, I’ve been doing a variety of things from trip planning (KL, HCMC, Hanoi, Singapore), laundry, and, mostly, hanging out at the beach.  One of the more interesting things I did was help out with a beach clean-up.  The majority of the garbage seemed to be Styrofoam and plastic and glass bottles, however there were also more lightbulbs, single shoes, and syringes than I had expected to find.  The most unusual* find of the day was a plastic cup that had filled with water (the plastic covering over the top seemed to be intact except for a small hole) and containing a small crab and a fish!  They must have been n there for a while because I don’t know how else they would have been able to get inside except for if they were smaller.  Anyways, Perhentian has been really great, and really beautiful.  Hopefully I will be able to get through the ride back without panicking too much. :)

 

*wow.  Three “u”s.  are there many other words that have that many “u”s?

Diving Thoughts

IMG_5133

 

164_6445-4.JPGDiving is awesome. Today I learned to really control my buoyancy. Basically, I can now sit, stand, lie, whatever stationary in the water, without kicking or moving. It also means that I can swim around and maneuver without using my hands. Its all really basic stuff, but its really cool. You can get up close to anything you want, instead of being limited to an overhead observer if something is a few meters down. If you see a school of fish or some cool coral a few meters below, you can just swim to it. And I convinced Joylani to get her PADI too!

PADI

IMG_4626

164_6445-4.JPGToday I began my PADI Open Water Diver course, which is the basic certification one needs to scuba dive. I’ll spare you the details of all the physics I learned today, but will share some of my thoughts on my first openwater dive this afternoon. After some confined water practice, we went a couple beaches north to Romantic Beach, where we dove to about 11 meters for 40 minutes. Mostly, we just drifted with the slight current, observing the wildlife and practicing buoyancy control. It was an awesome experience to fly through the water, without being limited to a single plane like snorkeling. I could go up, down, to either side, roll, etc. Even after just one dive I’m already regretful that I didn’t take this course earlier. How much richer would have my visits to the Maldives and Belize have been? And to a lesser extend, I’ve probably missed out on a lot in Hawaii, Costa Rica, Tahiti, and Thailand. Just more reasons to return to some of those places, I guess. Similarly, it also gives me an added incentive to go to a lot more new places. So I guess getting my PADI now is better than later. Especially since the next two months will take us to some of the best dive sites in the world.

Pulau Perhentian Kecil

IMGP6214

164_6445-4.JPGToday, we discovered paradise. It also goes by the name Pulau Perhentian, an island off the northeast coast of peninsular Malaysia. As you’d expect it wasn’t easy to reach paradise. Joylani said the half-hour speedboat ride to the island was “the freakiest transportation we’ve taken on this whole trip.” She also said (although I find her statement inconceivable), “I would rather take that 17-hour night bus through Nepal again, than get on that boat again.” We disembarked the boat at a beach appropriately called Coral Bay. It was a nice beach by any standard: white sand, clear water, a few longtails and only about a dozen restaurants/guesthouses stretched along the beach. It looked great and it was tempting to just stay there, but we stuck to our original plan and followed the stories we’ve heard of “Long Beach.”

IMG_4618

Coral Bay

We set out to cross the island, along a jungly trail. It was already mid-morning and our packs only made us sweat more as we walked through the humidity. They didn’t help us too much on the inclined trail either. But after ten minutes or so, the trail leveled off and then descended. As we walked down the hill, we began to hear the roar of the ocean. Then the jungle opened up into a clearing and the ocean came into view, framed by coco palms and the green bluffs. As we emerged from the canopy and continued on the sandy path, one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen came into view. Powdery white sand, light blue waves, and the clearest water you can imagine. Unbelievable.

Perhaps even more unbelievable than its beauty though, is the fact that Long Beach hasn’t yet whored its beauty to development and unadulterated tourism. Only a few restaurants and a half dozen restaurants sat in pockets carved out of the beachfront jungle. We just enjoyed the island all day today. The warm water, the white sand, the warm breeze. No roads, cars, even scooters or bikes, no generators, no nothing. Nothing but the sound of crashing waves. We later learned that the windmills we saw on the hill only provide power to the Malay village; in order to discourage development, the tourist beaches are excluded from the power grid. I’ve read some other people’s accounts of Perhentian at other times of year and I’m glad that we’re here now. Its just after offseason and the northeast monsoon is still pounding the coast. There’s nobody here and the big waves make swimming dangerous. Not that I dislike swimming, but its always fun to watch big waves and I think it makes you respect a place more. Perhentian- beautiful, undeveloped, and powerful- is paradise.

IMG_4606

Speed Bumps

joylani 130pxToday I survived the most terrifying boat ride I have ever been on. Not that I ever really felt my life was in danger, so I guess survived is perhaps too strong a word. But I was pretty tense for the whole half hour it took us to sprint across the South China Sea from Kuala Besut in North Eastern Peninsular Malaysia to the little island of Pulau Perhentian Kecil. Our boat wasn’t the biggest of the trip, it wasn’t the smallest either (it definitely wasn’t one of those wimpy little longtails that mostly just look pretty), but the boat (and I with it) was catching air as it made its way perpendicular through the churning waves to our destination. I watched in fear as our boat went over wave after wave. I quickly learned to watch the waves and lift myself slightly off the seat as the boat caught air to prevent my butt and back from being jarred upon impact with the water. White-knuckled, I had one hand gripping the railing behind me and the other clinging to my backpack to prevent it from sliding into the passenger sitting behind it. We made it, but I am not looking forward to going back.

Leaving Thailand and Arriving in Malaysia

joylani-thumbnail.JPGWe mistakenly read one of the departure times as the arrival time for our van to reach the Thai/Malay border. I guess we’re out of practice after not taking any long rides in a while. The ride through the southern tip of Thailand was surprisingly Keralan-esque with numerous coconut palms, mosques, and men in longhie-like sarongs and caps walking or cycling on the side of the road. We passed through several military checkpoints, a reminder of the ever present tensions in the south. Thankfully things turned out fine and although we arrived at the border 3 hours later than expected, crossing was much easier than we thought with hardly a wait on either side, and just a short walk between the checkpoints. (We prefer to not arrive in new places, especially new countries at dusk/dark because it is difficult to orient oneself, and we never know how long border formalities will take.) As we walked out of immigration I was surprised that no one came up to us to offer a cab or money changing services. After a short wait, we caught a local bus to Kotu Baru, where we would spend the night. I was impressed by so many people’s ability to speak seemingly great English, even the local bus drivers. It definitely made arriving an easy process. As we got off the bus a couple people seemed to want to tout us to a hotel, but after asking the usual, “Where are you going?” They responded to our answer with directions on how to get there on our own. It was really refreshing. We went India-style on the hotel and looked at several before choosing a clean and friendly place. Despite having a shared bath down the hall, it reminded me more of dorm-life than other shared-bath places we’ve stayed which mostly just feel gross. Our first 24 hours in Malaysia began the same way Thailand ended with confusion about the time, this time about the actual time and it wasn’t until a day later that we realized we were in a new time zone. (Which could have potentially messed us up with transportation this morning, but luckily we were ok.) Otherwise, the transition to Malaysia has been smooth sailing…until we went to Perhention.