Yesterday we departed Ao Nang in search of something better, but it seems we’ve found the opposite. It was a short boat trip from Ao Nang to Railay, a trio of mainland beaches that can only be reached by boat due to a limestone cliffs. Approaching Railay and hopping out of the boat into the pretty beach’s clear, warm water, made a pleasant first impression. Beautiful limestone karsts framed the green bay. We walked across the narrow isthmus from West Railay where we were dropped to the budget-oriented East Railay. East Railay, itself is not a very good beach, but its just a five minute walk to two spectacular ones. Unfortunately for us and like Ao Nang, we found the quality of guesthouses in Railay to be severely lacking relative to the rates they charged. I am fine paying more for quality, but it’s the worst feeling when we shell out a lot of money to stay at a junky place. In fact, even though our rooms in Ao Nang and Railay were mediocre at best, they were two of the most expensive rooms we’ve stayed in this trip. On the plus side, Railay was scenic, but the food and prices were disappointing. Despite those two factors, we would have left today anyways, due purely to the demographics here. Its only tourists here- no Thais except workers, no permanent residents or families, no regular stores other than souvenir shops, and no local food- its not a “real” place, just a destination for Europeans to be served in bars, clubs, and expat cafes.

This morning, we beat the crowds to beautiful Nang Phra beach and enjoyed the quiet beach. Nonetheless, one night in Railay was enough for us, so when checkout time rolled around, we grabbed our packs, waded out into the ocean, and tossed our bags into the next boat leaving for Krabi.

Low-tide at East Railay

The context of this post: We woke up in a villa suite at a five star resort and went to sleep in dark cube with a bed in it.

This morning, we bid farewell to my parents as they headed to the airport to catch their flight to Bangkok and eventually home. Joylani and I hitched a ride in their taxi, which dropped us off on the main highway. After waving goodbye as they drove off, we were back to our former vagabonding. It was only ten or fifteen minutes before we flagged down a bus that was headed to Krabi. We talked a bit on the three hour bus ride, but Joylani mainly slept as I thought (I think I still need a few days to process the past ten). We were back in form when we pulled into the Krabi bus station though, waving away touts and finding a sawngthaew to take us to Krabi’s main beach, Ao Nang. Arriving in Ao Nang, we reverted to our old strategy of finding a room in hot weather: Joylani stayed with the bags, while I scoured the town for a room. Most places were full (it was past 4pm), but I did find a couple available rooms and chose the one I disliked the least. It was terribly overpriced due to the high demand this time of year, but it was a room. Walking to and from dinner, we decided we’d seen enough of Ao Nang. Boats cluttered and polluted the beach, senior package tourists infested the touristy town, and the quality and service in the restaurants and our guesthouse was low, yet overpriced. We know standards and comfort will lower than they have been of late, but this is ridiculous. Tomorrow, we’ll be on the move again.

It goes without saying that the past week and a half has been absolutely amazing and lots of fun. Luxurious hotels and great meals aside, it was just so nice to spend time with people we know rather than people we just met. We talked a lot, and ate a lot (those two things go well together), and enjoyed each other’s company. Our last night summed up the last several days with a fun dinner together at Mom Tri’s Boathouse topped off with good conversation, an amazing sunset, dessert, and, of course, a cigar.

Thanks mom and dad—and happy anniversary!

It seems like my parents just got here and already its time for them to go. Sometimes I think our conception of time is all messed up because we’ve been traveling for so long. Anyways, as you’ve noticed, I haven’t written anything since my parents arrived except one entry at the end of each destination. I’m not sure why I haven’t written at all, but I think its some combination of spending more time hanging out and trying to use our time to do things we won’t be able to later. Needless to say, I haven’t written anything since we got to Phuket. Again, there’s not a whole lot to write about, since our time was mostly spent just hanging out. There are a couple highlights though.

Again, the hotel was a highlight. Not really an authentic Thai place, but it sure was comfortable. Big rooms, a big balcony, ocean views. It had several restaurants to choose from for any given meal, some baby elephants roamed the grounds in the morning and afternoons (with trainers) for the guests to take photos of/with and even ride if they chose too, several pools, complete with infinity edges and swim-up bars. One highlight was my dad telling the waiters wherever we went that it was Joylani’s birthday, in hopes of getting something. A couple times we got free desserts and once the waitstaff brought out a cake with candles and everything, while singing happy birthday.

We took a few daytrips from Mai Khao, where we are staying in northern Phuket. Seeing the beaches of Kamala and Kata Noi made me happy that we were staying in Mai Khao, since those southern beaches were so developed. Although our final dinner together in Kata was one of the best I’ve ever had, including the best scallops I’ve ever had. I can confidently recommend Mom Tri’s Boathouse as an excellent place to eat, in addition to its nice beach view which afforded us an awesome sunset view.

The best day trip we took was to Phang-Nga, where we hired a boat to take us around the bay. It was a nice boat ride and I think my parents were impressed, since they’ve never seen a landscape like it before. We saw “James Bond Island,” a karst in the ocean that was used as the setting of a 007 movie, although I cannot remember which one. We also stopped an island, which was a tourist trap more than anything else. Just a bunch of floating shops and restaurants attached to a small island. Nonetheless, it was a fun trip and it was nice to be back in a longtail again.

Phang Nga Bay

Without going into all the conversations and minutiae of our days, that’s about all I have for Phuket and my parents time here in Thailand. It was an awesome time and I think each of the four of us has unique reasons for enjoying it, so it was a well-rounded trip. I say trip, even though its really only a trip for them. Pretty soon, it’ll be back to “normal” life for us. After the past dozen days, I’m not sure how I’ll do reverting to our old ways. Yea, I know you readers are really sympathizing with me right now for “having” to return to independent travel. Anyways, its been awesome, but I think we’re all a bit sad its over.

Happy Anniversary, Mom and Dad! And THANKS!!!

“Well hello there, little elephant.”

“Hello,” said the elephant. (photos courtesy of Rob Shibata)

“There’s an elephant!” Matt’s mom, Nancy, stated. Oh, another elephant topiary, I thought to myself. Walking to the balcony of our villa, I looked out over the nicely landscaped garden and towards the beach. “Oh my gosh, it is an elephant!” I watched the pachyderm sit down as numerous hotel guests snapped photos. Matt’s dad, Rob, came to the window. He had trouble spotting it. Guessing what he might be thinking I said, “That’s not a rock.” “That’s an elephant!!?” he exclaimed. And that’s how we started to get used to the daily sightings of the two resident baby elephants. (As though seeing little elephants walking around a hotel is normal.) We’d see them throughout the day as we walked to and from breakfast, while lounging at the pool, or as they were being walked back to their elephant home at the end of the day. Be careful when you are feeding the elephants…

Elephants aside, staying at the JW Marriot Phuket has been great for its “hanging out” spaces. Whether it be our apartment-like villa, which has been the closest thing to home since leaving…Matt especially loved the sofa while I enjoyed a home-made breakfast cooked by Matt’s dad, or the creatively designed pools, the many delicious restaurants, or even the spacious hotel lobby—it was really relaxing to be marooned at the resort together. Not that we were really stuck there, since we made an outing each day, but it definitely was not a bad place to be.

Sofa.

Breakfast.

Thought this was interesting photo- ever seen a tuk-tuk with an amp, dvd-player and screen?

Chiang Mai was pretty different for us, this time around. Instead of a sanitary tiled cube of a room, we stayed in a boutique hotel tucked back in some sois. And instead of taking classes or going on treks, we contented ourselves with visiting wats, enjoying the food, and exploring the city. This was our second time here and we’re only spending three full days here this time around, so I don’t have too much to write. Mainly, we’ve just been catching up and hanging out with my parents. Chiang Mai is good for chilling out because there’s not too much to do.

 

Chiang Mai, I like it.  We had a great time during our first visit here in December, and this second visit has been wonderful as well.  It has been fun to show Matt’s parents places familiar to us, like the little market where we bought all of our goodies, just as it has been fun to do some new things around Chiang Mai together such as a visit the Royal Winter Palace and night walk along the river, and enjoying sawngthaew and tuk tuk rides around town.

 

Buying our favorite snacks at the market (photo courtesy of Rob Shibata).

 

 

During our walk we popped into a design shop where I saw this cute little lamp.  Unfortunately it wasn’t collapsible, so I settled on some elephant glasses to send home instead.